K(ate)’s Takes: Piazza Pelino

Kate Shields
Fri, 02 Feb 2024 03:12:34 +0000
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Credit: Abby Fricke | Managing Editor for Design

A taste of Italy in the Short North: Piazza Pelino brings fresh meaning to “housemade”

K(ate)’s Takes is a food column that explores and reviews dining spots in the Columbus area.

Since opening its doors in the Short North Arts District in November 2023, focacceria and gelateria Piazza Pelino — sister to Pelino’s Pasta — has been serving housemade Italian sandwiches and small-batch gelato with notable expertise.?

Upon walking in, I knew this was going to be a dining experience like no other, as I was immediately greeted by the delightful scents of authentic focaccia bread and a gaggle of 20-somethings enjoying wine flights paired with their sandwiches of choice.

If there were any questions regarding the restaurant’s Italian authenticity, I was immediately assured by various menu items being listed as DOP — Denominazione di Origine Protetta — which ensures the ingredients are locally sourced.?

I personally opted for the “Pesto Rosso” ($14.25), a delectable combination of cloud-like focaccia bread, softly roasted red and yellow bell peppers, creamy mozzarella di Buffala DOP — meaning it was made with the milk of a domestic water buffalo — all tied together with a perfectly nutty bell pepper and walnut pesto.?

Although the sandwich did not feature any meat, it was far from lacking in the flavor department; in fact, I am confident in its ability to appeal to both vegetarians and those who typically gravitate toward a meat-centric meal.?

My only minor complaint relates to the sandwich’s temperature, as I was expecting a warmer filling, but instead discovered a slightly chilled mixture of cheese and peppers.?

I also had the privilege of tasting the “Della Casa” ($16.25), which, in addition to the bubbly bread, features thick prosciutto di Parma DOP, velvety stracciatella and pesto genovese IGP — or? Indicazione Geografica Protetta, another certification of Italian authenticity — bursting with notes of fresh basil.?

The ingredients blend together perfectly, with the slightly salty prosciutto cutting the intensely herbaceous pesto. Additionally, the flaky salt atop the focaccia paired well with the sandwich’s other elements, providing a profoundly flavorful but balanced mouthfeel.?

While remarkably palatable on their own, choosing to complement my entrees with Piazza Pelino’s light and fluffy gelato is a decision I will forever be grateful for. The tiramisu flavor ($6.29) tasted just as it sounds — like a beautiful bite of the coffee-soaked dessert — and handily trumps the lemon gelato ($6.29) I likewise sampled.?

The race for first place was a close one, though. The citrusy central bite was delightfully tangy, yet sweet enough to prevent any sour faces from emerging. I believe stopping in for dessert is reason enough for a Piazza Pelino visit, seeing as visions of the silky gelato have already begun to dance in my head.?

While I did not partake in one, Piazza Pelino notably offers wine flights priced at $20 for four 2-oz. pours, something I will definitely indulge in on my next visit.

While slightly pricey, I would argue the sizable sandwiches and overflowing cups of gelato were more than worth the money, and paired with the instrumental Italian music, inviting decorations and friendly chefs, I am already scouring my calendar to plan another trip.?

Rank: 4.5/5

Note: This story was updated Feb. 2 at 11:53 a.m. to properly distinguish between Piazza Pelino and Pelino’s Pasta.